Adopting the Way of the Snail : Grado to Salas

Given the number of other pilgrims we are walking this trail with, we decided to stay for the buffet breakfast offered by the albergue at 7:30 am, assuming this would mean most other hikers would be ahead of us on the trail today.  We were somewhat surprised to find the dining area full of people when we went down, with more arriving by the minute.  We managed to enjoy a good breakfast of toast, jam, café con leche, and fruit before heading off into another gorgeous morning. 

 

 

A heavy mist still clung to the tops of some of the surrounding hills as we began the climb out of town on a paved road, but a golden sun was already beginning to brighten the morning.  One of the best pieces of advice we've received for hiking certainly applied this morning - don't forget to look behind you!

 

 

We paused many times on the climb out of Grado to look back as rays of sunshine broke through the clouds, sending golden beams down to the green fields and small towns below.  In the distance it looked like the valleys between the mountain peaks were filled with luminous silver light.  As we watched the light continually shifted and changed, putting on a spectacular show. 

 

 

 

 

Many pilgrims sped past us on the climb, looks of fierce determination on their faces as they hurried towards their destination.  Horses in the surrounding fields, many of which had newborn foals that were still wobbly on their too-long legs stopped to watch us.  Several Siamese cats, intent on capturing breakfast in the tall roadside grasses, studiously ignored us.  All around the sound of cowbells could be heard echoing across the hills. 

 

 

The road soon became a dirt track lined with ivy covered stone walls and low hedgerows that wound through the countryside, and then began descending rather steeply past what looked like an old quarry.  As we descended, walking high above the highway, we saw a line of pilgrims stretching out in front of us, some walking hand in hand, others forming small groups, and a few walking single file in a straight line.

 

We remained at the back of this group of walkers as we descended through a picturesque hillside town, passing colourful homes lined with potted flowers and cactuses blooming in a riot of different colours.  On the valley side of the street an orchard of apple trees bloomed with delicate, sweet smelling white and pink blossoms. 

 

 

At the bottom of the hill we followed a dirt footpath through a small orchard and then into a tunnel of green forest, crossing a small stream on a wooden footbridge as we went.  Sunlight filtered through the trees, dappling the trail with spots of moving light.  Several small stone buildings, long since abandoned and with their roofs falling in, stood covered in moss and partially hidden in the ferns at the side of the muddy trail.  The green tunnel of vegetation felt magical and full of life.

 

 

When we emerged from the woods we found ourselves back on the roadway, crossing under the highway in a rounded metal tunnel.  We then climbed up again to the charming little hamlet of La Doriga, where we passed by the stone Iglesia de Santa Eulalia, which was built in the 12th century.  It was a beautiful structure, but I particularly enjoyed the patterned stone floor.

 

 

It was a pleasant enough walk through country lanes towards the larger community of Cornellana, where we were looking forward to seeing the Monasterio de San Salvador. Just before we reached the town, there was a short stint of road walking.  We had spent the last hour or so pacing ourselves, trying to maintain a respectful distance between us and other walkers on the trail, but in this stretch we found ourselves sandwiched into a line of pilgrims that was walking pretty much heal to toe along the edge of the highway.  When one person stopped, everyone did. When someone crossed the road, everyone behind them followed.  If the lead sped up or slowed down, so did everyone else.  It was as if everyone was connected by an invisible tow rope.

 

 

At this point it felt like we were no longer walking our own Camino, but everyone else's. There is nothing wrong with this kind of experience, it just simply wasn't our cup of tea.  At the first opportunity we seized the chance to pull over into a small natural park with picnic tables to take a break and let the others get ahead, ignoring their well-intentioned advice that the Camino was straight ahead, and not where we were headed.  A couple of other walkers followed us into the park, taking a rest at nearby picnic tables.

 

At this point we took a moment to think about what has been bothering us since we've joined the Primitivo.  Part of the reason we hike Caminos is certainly because of the people we meet along the way.  However, we also value our solitude, and we realize that in our normal lives we enjoy a great deal of freedom.  We are used to walking our own pace, stopping to take a photograph or watch a bird when the opportunity arises, and to explore without it affecting the path of others.  When walking in crowds of people everything becomes determined by the group, which is not something we are used to. 

 

 

We waited for the others to continue on before walking the final kilometer into Cornellana.  It was a busy but beautiful town, and best of all, there was a bustling café with lots of outdoor tables.  We joined the group of pilgrims already sitting in the warm sunshine, and sat with cafè con leches, enjoying the break.  We rested until most of the others had set out, and then made our own way down the busy streets, across a bridge over the beautiful Rio Nonaya. 

 

 

On the far side of the river we came to the Monasterio de San Salvador. The interior of the church was from the 12th century, and the facade from the 17th century.  We've heard that the albergue inside is a wonderful, if potentially haunted place to sleep.  Many of the windows in the majestic old building were missing, with only a small portion of the structure still occupied and maintained.  It looked peaceful and stately, and in some ways we regretted not staying in the old stone building. 

 

 

 

After Cornellana we wove up and down the hills through the warm sunny afternoon on paved roads, dirt tracks, and slightly muddy footpaths.  We walked among fields, through small villages, and down beautifully shaded and cool forested corridors.  At one point we passed a quarry with large piles of bright white stone, and we could see where it had been quarried in the surrounding hills.  It was a pleasant walk, although we were never alone, and we constantly had to modify our pace to fit into the constant flow of other pilgrims. 

 

 

We arrived in Salas around 2:00 pm and stopped on the way in to town for a cold drink, because by this time the sun was quite hot.  As we made our way through town we passed the remains of the castle, which was built in the 10th century.  This castle was the birthplace of Fernando Valdés-Salas, founder of the University of Oviedo, Archbishop of Seville, and an Inquisitor General of Spain.  On the way through the charming and bustling town we also passed the 16th century Colegiata de Santa Maria la Mayo, with its dark stone exterior and tall bell tower, as well as a large number of hostals and albergues. 

 

 

The Albergue where we are staying is at the far end of town, and it turned out to be ultra modern, and extremely light, airy, and clean.  When we approached there was a small solar powered robot mowing the lawn.  We did our chores, went back to the supermercado to purchase some snacks for tomorrow, and then spent a pleasant afternoon sitting on the terrace enjoying the sunshine and writing the blog.  

 

 

As we waited for dinner to be served at 8 pm we were joined by Mike from England, Mik from Germany, and Linton from Australia, who is 78 years old and full of stories of past Caminos and a lifetime of adventures.  As the afternoon wore on a lot of cervezas were enjoyed, and we all learned just how much people from other countries are like and have in common.  When dinner was served it was a delicious salad followed by pasta, with red wine and bread.  We are still learning to adapt to the more crowded trail, but all in all it was another beautiful day on the Camino which ended with the kind of camaraderie and conversation that makes these adventures so special. 

Distance: 22.1 

Accommodation: Alberge Casa Sueno