About the Camino Primitivo

The Camino Primitivo, also known as the Primitive or Original Way, spans from Oviedo at the intersection of the Camino Norte and Camino San Salvador routes and serves as a bridge between the Norte and Frances.  The Camino Primitivo is 285 km long from Oviedo southward to Melide where it intersects with the Camino Frances and it is 342 km from Oviedo to Santiago de Compostela. 

 

The route of the Camino Primitivo is considered more challenging than that of the Camino Frances given that the terrain it traverses is the Cantabrica Mountains which is much more hilly and rugged in nature.  The Primitivo is frequently trekked as part of the Norte, in conjunction with the Camino San Salvador or on its own given its relatively short length.

 

 

History of the Camino Primitivo 

 

Tradition holds that the Camino Primitivo is the oldest and perhaps ‘original’ camino route which was initially established in the 9^th century after Santiago’s remains and tomb were rediscovered.  The Primitivo follows the route of Alfonso II or Alfonso the Chaste, the King of Asturias, who walked to Santiago’s tomb hiking from the Spanish capital of Oviedo to Lugo and then onto Compostela. 

 

Following the Moorish invasion and reconquest of Spain which lead to the rising political influence of the city of Leon the Camino Frances became the more frequently travelled route for pilgrims to Santiago.   

 

 

Presently the route of the Camino Primitivo has continued to become more popular with pilgrims as trekkers look for alternatives to the busier Camino Frances to the south.  As of 2019 the Camino Primitivo is considered to be the fourth most popular route for pilgrims en route to Santiago. 

 

Trail Conditions and Terrain 

 

The Camino Primitivo is a generally well maintained pathway – weather and season depending.  Given its location it is noted for having a number of days filled with challenging terrain as the trail ascends and descends hilly and mountainous regions of northern Spain.  Given the topography of the Primitivo pilgrims must remember that much of this route can be colder in the Spring, Fall and Winter seasons just as rain storms can transform the steep pathway into challenging mud to climb or descend on.

 

At the heart of the Primitivo is a variation in the route were pilgrims must choose to travel either along the challenging mountainous stretch of the Hospitales or along the more navigable Pola route.

 

 

With all of that said, if you are prepared and willing to listen to your body – taking breaks and stopping when needed – the primitive is entirely possible to complete.   

 

Despite (or perhaps because of) many of the topographical challenges along the way the Camino Primitivo provides more time in the wilderness and in nature – especially as the route lacks the number of pilgrims which the Frances often has on it.

 

 

Given modern development along the Primitivo in the past two decades the route is well established with regular amenities and very good way-marking utilizing the traditional combination of yellow arrows, shells, and representations of Santiago. 

 

Accommodations and Amenities 

 

Given the large number of pilgrims which take this route or combine it with the Camino Norte and Camino San Salvador this is a very well developed trail with regularly provided accommodation options including traditional albergues, dormitories, donativos, hostels, and hotels.  This range of accommodations enables pilgrims to regularly choose between bunks, dorms, or private rooms – as well as on occasion camping sites.

 

 

In addition to accommodations, the Primitivo enables pilgrims to travel while having access to regularly amenities such as cafes, bakeries and bars / restaurants – though they are (at times) more spaced out than on routes such as the Camino Frances.  In addition, given that many of the towns which the Camino Primitivo passes through are rural and smaller the hours of such shops and amenities can vary – at times unexpectedly. 

 

Credentials and Compostellas 

 

As one uses on the Camino Frances and Caminho Portuguese as well as other notable and popular pilgrim routes across France, Portugal and Spain pilgrims on the Camino Primitivo utilize the pilgrim credential system along the way.   Credentials or pilgrim passports - small booklets in which pilgrims collect daily stamps – from albergues, gites, bars, churches, cathedrals, and town halls are used along the entire Primitivo route.

 

 

In some locations, Stamped Credentials are required in albergues to prove that one is a pilgrim and thereby be allowed to use pilgrim accommodations.  These Credentials are also necessary once one arrives into Santiago to collect your Compostella – or final certificate of arrival or document of completion.