Reflections and Lessons from the Camino Primitivo

 “The Way is Made by Walking” 

Pilgrimage from Oviedo to Lugo to Santiago

The Camino Primitivo is often called the "Original Way" as it is the first recorded pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela. But while it may be the oldest, for us, it felt like one of the most alive.

 
In many ways, it is certainly the most elemental.  It climbs higher, speaks quieter, and demands more of the body and the spirit than many of the better-known Caminos. But in return, it offers something few trails can: a deep and unfiltered immersion into the land, the weather, and ourselves.
 
In just under two weeks, we experienced fog-wrapped forests and sun-drenched ridgelines, blistering descents and soul-lifting vistas, crowded cafés and wide-open wilderness. We shared laughter and wine with strangers who became friends, and learned to navigate not just the trail, but the emotional rhythm of walking a Camino that’s both physically demanding and socially complex. 

Between Solitude and Society

We began this Camino after walking the Camino de Madrid and the Camino de San Salvador and we were expecting peace and solitude, but quickly discovered the Primitivo is no longer the quiet path it once was. Groups formed early, crowded stretches of trail built tension, and there were days when we felt like hikers on a schedule rather than pilgrims on a journey.

 
At times, we felt like we’d lost our Camino - rushing to stay ahead, slowing to fall behind, missing birds, photos, and moments in nature because the trail was too crowded to pause. But gradually, we learned to let go, as these moments challenged us to articulate what we value most: freedom, space, time to watch birds and breathe with the land. And in recognizing that, we gave ourselves permission to fall behind, to pause, to find our own rhythm again.
 
When we did, we began to rediscover the magic of the Camino and the world - in the misty mornings, the snails crossing our path, the ever-changing mountain light. In choosing our pace, we reclaimed the pilgrimage. 

The Power of the Mountains

The Hospitales Route - wild, remote, and utterly beautiful was a high point in every sense.
 
It was hard. It was steep. But it was also breathtaking.
 
It tested our endurance, pushed us to the edge of exhaustion, and surrounded us with raw natural grandeur. But more than that, it reminded us why we walk. 

 
Up there, above the tree line, where ancient hospital ruins stand as silent witnesses to centuries of pilgrims, we felt a deep connection...to the land, to the past, to each other. For hours, we saw no road, no bar, no comfort but what we carried.
 
There is a clarity that comes when you are far above the noise … literal or figurative. For a few unforgettable hours, it was just us, the land, and the sky. It was the Camino in its purest form.

 
In short, if the weather permits, do the high route, it is definitely worth it and perhaps one of the most memorable stages of any Camino or trail we have ever walked. 

Lessons Learned on the Camino Primitivo

Pilgrimage is not about pace. It’s about presence. 
 
The trail is both physical and personal. Everyone walks with different questions and finds different answers.
 
Cities have Stories too. While so much of the Camino Primitivo is about time in nature, the cities are amazing.  Especially Lugo – if you have the opportunity, take an hour and walk the city walls – you will not be disappointed.

 
The landscape teaches. Forests, fog, sun, birdsong — these are the true guides.  The Primitivo is a wonderful trek for those who enjoy time in nature.
 
Early to Rise, Late to Bed. Morning sunrises and evening sunsets are worth while to be up for and enjoy – as are the moments of dense fog which transform the landscape into magical wonderlands.
 
Reward amid Challenge.  The Camino Primitivo is not always easy, but it is very honest, and there are rewards amid the challenges pilgrims overcome en route. 

Final Reflections on the Primitivo

The Camino Primitivo is not easy. It was a test of patience, endurance, and presence. It climbs hard, and just as often descends hard.  However, more than the physical challenges, the Primitivo asked us to let go of expectations, to adjust not only our pace but our mindset. And in doing so, it gave us something we hadn’t expected: a renewed sense of perspective and a deeper appreciation for the balance between connection and solitude, planning and spontaneity.

 
As we turned our steps toward Santiago once again, we knew this Camino had changed us.  We left the route wiser and more grateful than when we had arrived in Oviedo.
 
See you on the Way!