Our Walk Along the Camino Primitivo

Without paying too much attention to the weather forecast we had planned to walk the final 38 km into Santiago today.  In the tradition of our first walk along the Camino Frances, we rose early and set off in the darkness around 6:00 am.  We knew it was Galician Literature Day, the 10th holiday that has occurred since we arrived in Spain at the beginning of April prior to venturing along the Camino Madrid , Camino San Salvador and onto the Primitivo, but we had assumed that at least one of the bars or cafés along the Camino Francés would be open to feed the masses of hungry pilgrims on their way to Santiago.  With a sinking feeling we walked down the dark and empty streets of Arzua at 5am and quickly realizing that everything was shuttered and silent.      At the edge of town we passed a small Galician church with a stone cross.  The old way marker stood on a small grassy island in a pool of light from an overhead street lamp.  At this point a...